Modding has always been a hobby of mine. I thorough enjoy getting electronic devices to do things beyond what they were meant for. Recently I was feeling a bit nostalgic and decided to try my hand at taking a cheap Nintendo DSi XL that I bought from eBay and modifying it to become what some would call a Gameboy Macro XLi. The reason for writing this guide is because I’ve actually not seen too many guides on doing this. There is an abundant amount of information about modifying the older Nintendo DS Lite and DS phat but no centralized place for making the modification on the Nintendo DSi XL/LL. So here’s my attempt a very concise and quick guide on making one yourself. You might notice that there are different DSi XLs in the pictures, I did this over several weeks and modified different ones until I was happy with the way it turned out. As always, I’m not responsible if you brick your device or injure yourself in anyway, this was done as a hobby to potentially help anyone who might be looking for information. Please read through the entire guide before attempting this mod, it’s fairly involved and takes some tech know-how to accomplish.

A few months ago I bought an ortholinear keyboard. If you don’t know what that is, here’s a short explanation from another website: “Ortholinear keyboards are a unique type of keyboard with a die-hard group of followers within the mechanical keyboard community. The non-staggered keys make for an interesting typing experience that is highly sought after.” I have found typing on a ortholinear keyboard to be very enjoyable. It didn’t take long to relearn the key positions and after a couple of weeks I was to typing my usual 93 WPM. My biggest issue with my board is that sometimes I feel like it’s a bit too small. Because the board is only about 14” long, it feels “cramp”.

I started my journey into lawn care recently and by no means am I an expert or pro. My backyard is literally 350 sq ft so there isn’t much to care for. I’ve been watching a lot of videos on Youtube by guys like Ryan Knorr, Connor Ward, Lawn Ginja, etc. I’ve been amazed by the amount of work they put into their lawns and just how lush and green they are. I know that those goals are probably not going to be achievable quickly but I’m trying to soak up as much knowledge as I can at the moment. I’ve bought different tools and equipment to help me on this journey and as always I came across a few tools that I didn’t feel like were completely necessary and/or way over priced. One of those tools is the Levelawn or Lawn Lute, essentially a flat tool that is used to help push and level top dressing.

I recently bought a DeWalt DWS713 Miter Saw and it did not come with the XPS Cutline LED module. I didn’t want to spend the extra money for a ton of features that I didn’t need and with this new model there wasn't any way to upgrade the miter saw to have an LED light so I created and printed my own. It’s not the most sophisticated system but it works.

Along with 3D printing, tinkering with electronics, and a bunch of other hobbies I am also a beekeeper. I have been beekeeping for about 6 years or so now and I feel like I’m constantly learning new things when it comes to honeybees. I decided to write this short post in hopes that it’ll help others who are trying to use a fume board and extract honey. There is a ton of information out there concerning this but I really don’t feel like there is a singular place that answers the question of: What can I use to get my bees out of the honey supers when I can’t find products like; Bee-Quick, Bee Go, and Honey-B-Gone?

At first I was going to publish this as a add-on to my Setting Up A Raspberry Pi guide but the more I thought about it the more I realized how much easier it is to just flash the OctoPi image as opposed to flashing Raspberry Pi OS and going through installing all the dependents and everything else you’d need.

I’ve been playing around with Raspberry Pis for a while now, they are awesome little computers that can be used for thousands of different things. After getting a few requests I decided that I should make a short guide on setting up a Pi. I will be doing multiple guides that include: Setting up a VPN server, Running OctoPi, Running PiHole, etc. For this guide it is to simply setup Raspberry Pi OS on a MicroSD card and getting SSH functional. This should work for any iteration of Raspberry Pi available for purchase at the moment…

I’ve been a big fan of mechanical keyboards for a while now. I’ve a few keyboards with PCBs and made hot swappable boards but never attempted to build a hand wired keyboard. I was looking for something to do in terms of projects as I waited for my new MSLA printer, and take a rest from messing around with my MK3S. After doing some research and looking back into hand wired keyboards I decided to build my own and decided to write a short and simplified guide on how to build one. This will be pretty concise and not explain every aspect of hand wiring, but will cover the basics so that you can wire one up yourself.

Trying to print on the entire bed of a 3D printer can be difficult at times. From my experience with a printer that didn’t have an auto bed level probe, there was only so much space I could print on and any adjustments I made would cause another part of the bed to just go out of whack. Once thing I appreciate about the MK3S is the PINDA probe, I honestly think it’s one of the best bed leveling systems I’ve ever used, it has it’s flaws but from working with other 3D printers this has been an amazing experience. After having the printer for some time, I started realizing that parts of the bed was uneven, so uneven that I might have perfect first layers in one area but layers that were too close in others. This wasn’t noticeable on small prints, but when I made a huge print that covered the entire bed, it was obvious that the bed wasn’t 100% flat. I did some research and stumbled on what was called the “nylock mod”, and my journey to a more leveled bed began.